This week at the Marc Jacobs show at New York Fashion Week, thirty-seven models sported pastel locks. The shades of green, lavender, peach, blue, yellow, and pink were created by Josh Wood, the Redken Global Color Creative Director.
“I’ve never worked on anything where there was so much willingness to try new things,” Wood told Refinery29. “This is the biggest color project I have ever worked on. Every single girl is a different color. It was like a color revolution.”
To prepare for the Spring 2019 show, each model had to undergo five or six coloring sessions that began three days before the show and ended, in some cases, a few hours before strutting down the runway. To get the achieve the pastel look, Wood first bleached each model’s hair to generate a blank canvas. Then, colorists employed a shadow root technique to add depth, which was followed by a metallic base, and finally a pastel dye. Wood referred to the result as “anti-unicorn hair,” in the sense that rather than being “overt or bold,” it was “refined.”
The styling, however, did not end with coloring. Wood, working with Redken stylist Guido Palau, buzzed nine of the models’ heads and gave fifteen new bob cuts. Those with longer hair received an egg-shaped bouffant inspired by 1960s divas like Barbra Streisand and Brigitte Bardot.
Some of the products used included Windblown 05 Dry Texturizing Hairspray and Guts 10 Volumizing Spray Mousse by Redken, though Palau advised against trying this at home. “You don’t,” he said. “You can take elements from it, but if you want this exaggerated, polished look, I don’t think anyone could do this.”
The makeup included, as expected, several Marc Jacobs Beauty products that Runway Makeup Artist Diane Kendal used to develop a wistful look. After applying the Shameless Foundation, Kendal applied pigments in shades of lilac, blue, and yellow to the models’ eyelids. The shades haven’t been launched yet. She also used Marc Jacobs’s Magic Marc’er Precision Pen Waterproof Liquid Eyeliner, Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara, and Brow Wow Defining Longwear Eyebrow Pencil to perfect the eyes and brows and added finishing touches with the Enamoured Hydrating Lip Gloss Stick.
Despite beginning an hour and a half late, which reportedly infuriated Anna Wintour, the Marc Jacobs show was well-received. Nicole Phelps, the Director of Vogue Runway, wrote, “Like cotton candy, which its pastel colors evoked, the collection was ridiculous and sublime at the same time, and its couture extravagance absolutely won you over.”